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Dan Gillen

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Reply with quote  #1 
Just thought I would share with everyone my winter rewrap project on my 12' Sharpes splice jointed bamboo.
It's pretty time-consuming because I do it all by hand but that's OK because I have a lot of time to do this. As I look outside it doesn't appear that I will be outdoors casting for quite some time. The wrapping thread colors I chose are maroon and silver. That just happens to be our U of M football colors. 👍My feather inlay consist of jungle cock, rooster pheasant and blue Kingfisher. I have really had to learn "patience". Took my first stripper guide wraps off because I used old color preservative and it didn't work. I will add to this as I finish the midsection and the tips. Enjoy. I'm having a great time!
Dan

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justin carnecchia

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Reply with quote  #2 
Go Griz!!
Matthew LeBret

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Reply with quote  #3 
Looks good Dan, Nice tight wraps. 

I stopped using color preserver for that reason, I just switched to color fast thread. I have seen Color preserver do some funky stuff over the years. How is the build coming along?

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Dan Gillen

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Reply with quote  #4 
UP DATE ON WINTER RE-WRAP
I have managed to finish the butt section of my Sharpes. The midsection is in the final stages and the first tip has just been started. I'll finish the second tip at a later date.
Pic#1. All four sections in different stages of completion. The butt section is done. The middle section is wrapped and I'm in the process of adding the second of three coats of thread preservative to it. Then the final three coats of thread wrap lacquer. I have used scotch tape to wrap the rod to prevent my shakieness from spilling over onto the finished product. I used the blade to scrape both the butt section and the midsection to take off the old finish. It was a very simple process and easy to do. The first tip has been stripped using citrus orange, but I didn't like the outcome so I used the blade to scrape it. It is half done. Notice the color change at the tip of the blade. The darker portion is yet to be scraped.
Pic#2. This shows the wood shavings from the scraped midsection and the color change on the first tip at the point of the blade. After scraping I used a woodblock and 200 grit sand paper to even my scrapes, then I used 0000 steel wool to finish up.
Pic#3. I have inlaid four different feathers. Two jungle cock, one rooster pheasant breast and two blue Kingfisher. This picture also shows a good view of the way I taped my guide wraps for thread preservative and Thread lacquer. Three coats of each. Before any guide wrapping takes place each bamboo section is finished with five coats of true oil. 0000 steel wool is used between each coat. It is time consuming and great patients are required but I am very happy with the outcome at this point. Enjoy!
Dan

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Dan Gillen

Dan Gillen

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Reply with quote  #5 
All finished for this season. I am very happy with my results. I decided to wait until next winter to finish the second tip as I'm sure I will be looking for something to do come February. Sure hope I am as happy with the grizzly football team as I am with my finished product. Time to put everything together and get out on the lawn.

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Jake Van Noppen

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Reply with quote  #6 
Dan,

Nice job on the wraps looks like everything turned out amazing.  Look forward to seeing that rod out on the water.

Jake
Brian Colin

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Reply with quote  #7 
You have gone to immense pains with this total overhaul; clearly a labour of love.

Having had very many of these rods I will share the 'Scottish' method of maintenance.

Firstly,  scraping the surface of the bamboo can be injurious to the impregnation and may also weaken the bamboo by removing or damaging the strong outside fibres.   UK owners have traditionally done is to wipe the rods down with a little linseed oil and, when dry, buff them up with a polishing cloth.

I also use a rag with Jobata violin oil as it seems to clean the muck off quite well and a few days later proceed as above.   Attempting to remove the patina of age is a personal choice; I prefer the rod to be clean and will not use colour preserver as it has too often proved to be the weakness which in time mars the finish.  Varnish into raw silk works well but does darken the colour of the silk.

When retying / replacing rings (the originals are prone to flake/rust as they are chrome plated) I use real silk and a decent natural varnish such as copal...I am sure Tung based varnish may even be better, but is difficult to obtain in Scotland.  Tung oil may also be better than Linseed for rubbing down once or twice a year.

Be careful of forces applied to the butt-caps...they are poor quality and not designed for lengthening or strong bottom hand casting.  Abuse them and they split along their length.  [I bought my first 13' in 1967 from my local fishing rod retailer in Ireland.   It arrived and off to the river we went.  The first few casts and the butt cap came off...it had not been pinned or glued!]

My task now is to restore two 13' rods that need new rings.  I shall post pictures of progress as I intend to stick to the old ways.



Dan Gillen

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Reply with quote  #8 
Thanks Brian for your reply. I will follow your suggestions when I do the second tip in Feb.
Dan

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Dan Gillen
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